| Author | Post |
|---|
videocheez
Registered Member
| Joined: | Tue Jun 8th, 2010 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 8 |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
Posted: Fri Jun 11th, 2010 07:18 am |
|
Last year I moved into an 83 year old historic home and in order to get my property tax reduction via the Mill's Act, one of the things that I told the City I would do is bolt my house to the foundation. As I started searching the web for ideas on bolting, I ran across bayarearetrofit's website and realized that anchor bolts alone will not prevent my house from falling down. I would like to learn about installing shear walls on my cripple wall. I have a 1900 sq ft basement with a concrete wall that's six feet high with a 25" cripple wall on top. I would like to install shearwalls or at least start to learn about shearwalls for my house but I don't see any examples of how to do this with balloon framing.
Also, my next comment might be for the bolting forum, but it relates to shearwalls. I didn't place my bolts so that they are directly between the studs and since I read that the shearwall needs to be attached to the studs that surround an anchor bolt, I may have trouble because the bolt is installed where the plywood may need to be installed. Should I abandon the bolt or cut it out or just install more bolts in the right location between some of the other studs? Could I notch the plywood around the bolt?
I would appreciate any comments since I'm new to this and have no knowledge about this type of construction.
Thanks in advance,
VC
Below are a couple of photos that show what I'm working with.
Last edited on Fri Jun 11th, 2010 07:26 am by videocheez
|
Howard
Administrator
|
Posted: Fri Jun 11th, 2010 02:55 pm |
|
| Hi VC, you have balloon framing which requires very special retrofit techniques that cannot be expllained verbally and there are no books I can lead you to. I have a drawing somewhere and if you will email me off the web site I will find it and send it to you.
|
videocheez
Registered Member
| Joined: | Tue Jun 8th, 2010 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 8 |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
Posted: Fri Jun 11th, 2010 09:48 pm |
|
Thanks for the response. I would love to see your balloon framing example. Is balloon framing weaker than standard platform framing?
|
Howard
Administrator
|
Posted: Sat Jun 12th, 2010 04:51 pm |
|
| Not sure about being better or worse, there has been no testing of balloon framing. In my mind it is probably better.
|
videocheez
Registered Member
| Joined: | Tue Jun 8th, 2010 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 8 |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
Posted: Sun Jun 13th, 2010 08:44 am |
|
Thanks for sending me the pdf's with example details of shear wall installation for balloon framing. Based on the photo of my cripple wall that I included in my first post, which of your details do you think best applies? I converted your pdf's to jpg's and included them for reference.
There may be some one out there with balloon framing who is wondering the same thing. Also, do you think that balloon framing may be stronger in an earthquake than platform framing since the studs are continuous from mudsill to eave? Thanks in advance for your time.
Last edited on Sun Jun 13th, 2010 08:52 am by videocheez
|
Howard
Administrator
|
Posted: Sun Jun 13th, 2010 01:23 pm |
|
| Use the second one with the blocks.
|
videocheez
Registered Member
| Joined: | Tue Jun 8th, 2010 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 8 |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
Posted: Wed Jun 23rd, 2010 06:11 am |
|
Ok. How wide should my plywood panels be? Do I need to use one long 8' piece or can cut them into sections that are 2 x the stud spacing? Also, what type of tool is used to fasten these king sized staples?
Thanks in advance,
VC
|
Howard
Administrator
|
Posted: Thu Jun 24th, 2010 02:01 pm |
|
Ok. How wide should my plywood panels be? Do I need to use one long 8' piece or can cut them into sections that are 2 x the stud spacing? Make the panels as long as possible. Also, what type of tool is used to fasten these king sized staples?
Senco M3 or M3+ with the driver modified not to overdrive the staples. They shoot Q series staples. New different models cost around 600 dollars and cannot be rented.
|
Eric
Registered Member
| Joined: | Sun Oct 8th, 2006 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 12 |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
Posted: Thu Jun 24th, 2010 05:09 pm |
|
| My recollection is that APA gives values for 16 gauge staples also. Guns for these are readily available (e.g. Home Depot) and inexpensive. And they are useful to have around for other types of projects. You would need to use more staples. As for overdriving the staples, just make sure you don't. Adjust the gun, turn down the air pressure, or shoot through cardboard drywall shims -- do whatever you have to do to get it right. Don't start thinking this is magical in some way. There's no one way that it "should" or "needs to" or "has to" be. You know that bigger plywood panels are better. You will be bracing your house with wood and fasteners. Sometime when you are not in a rush go down in your basement/crawlspace and sit/lie down and spend some quiet time looking around and thinking about what's going to happen when the ground goes sideways.
|
videocheez
Registered Member
| Joined: | Tue Jun 8th, 2010 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 8 |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
Posted: Fri Jun 25th, 2010 06:23 am |
|
Thanks for the replay and the info. In the longitudinal balloon framing example with plywood blocks, the diagram shows 3/4" plywood blocks jammed snug between the joists. Could I fasten these 3/4" plywood blocks to the joists with something like a Simpson A35 framing angle rather than just relying on a snug fit?
Thanks in advance,
VC
|
videocheez
Registered Member
| Joined: | Tue Jun 8th, 2010 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 8 |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
Posted: Fri Jun 25th, 2010 06:31 am |
|
Eric wrote: My recollection is that APA gives values for 16 gauge staples also. Guns for these are readily available (e.g. Home Depot) and inexpensive. And they are useful to have around for other types of projects. You would need to use more staples. As for overdriving the staples, just make sure you don't. Adjust the gun, turn down the air pressure, or shoot through cardboard drywall shims -- do whatever you have to do to get it right. Don't start thinking this is magical in some way. There's no one way that it "should" or "needs to" or "has to" be. You know that bigger plywood panels are better. You will be bracing your house with wood and fasteners. Sometime when you are not in a rush go down in your basement/crawlspace and sit/lie down and spend some quiet time looking around and thinking about what's going to happen when the ground goes sideways. Thanks for the tip. I'll make a Home Depot run tomorrow to check it out I already have a small electric powered stapler that was inexpensive but it's way too small for this job. I like your suggestion about spending quiet time thinking about what is going to happen when the house shakes. That quiet time is what led me to the bay area retrofit forums. Is overdriving when the nail staple is pressed in so hard that it goes beneath the surface of the wood? Why should overdriving be avoided?
Thanks,
VC
|
Current time is 01:04 pm | |
|
